Since last Tuesday, the fashion ateliers of Paris have been predicting what we’d see on the Spring/Summer 2019 runways. What Paris has presented for SS19 has left me in awe of the authenticity that some designers hold onto, and has challenged me to take some fashion risks. Fashion weeks held in Paris usually solidify what the future of fashion will look like, and they remind me why fashion is one of my great loves.
Here are the moments you definitely could not have missed:
1. We miss you, Phoebe
I’m talking about Phoebe Philo, the former creative director of the fashion house previously known as Céline, and one of the most prolific names in womenswear. The entire fashion industry misses her, with retail houses that would replicate her designs probably suffering the most. I cannot forget the day I heard Phoebe was leaving Céline. She was the creative director for 10 years, and knew what every woman wanted to wear.
This was Hedi Slimane’s first attempt at filling her shoes. Well, he literally threw out Phoebe’s boots: from removing Celine’s accent on the first ‘e’ to getting rid of the aesthetic that we held true to the brand.
This is definitely a new era for Celine. With Hedi’s predominantly dark palette, he scribbled his signature, first over Dior, then at Saint Laurent and now over my beloved, Celine. I am not sure why Hedi cannot build his own empire instead of changing the legacies of other brands.
For SS19, Celine is dark, metallic and studded, with leather and feathers, boots and veils, and most confusingly, party dresses in 80s silhouettes. Wow.
2.’Nike Couture’ NOT ‘Athleisure’
I am enchanted by Virgil Abloh and the vastness of his creativity. The way our social culture is set up is hugely attributed to him, so when he releases something, anything, pay attention.
His ‘Track & Field’ collection aimed to mesh athletic apparel with femininity, and streetwear with evening wear. Virgil has created ‘Nike Couture’. This is not a contribution to the athleisure trend. Instead, it is a coming together of two fashion genres to create something new.
T-shirts and leotards were combined with ballgowns. Lycra and tulle reminded of a ballerina’s outfit from the ‘QUEEN’ collection Serena Williams wore during the US Open. Snake-skin-printed synthetic sportswear fibres were used to make dresses.
Probably the most unique marrying of these two fashion genres was seen in the footwear, with windbreaker and high-top heels.
3. VALENTINO: Pierpaola Piccioli is on a roll
Pierpaola Piccioli has left me breathless. His last two collections are awe-inspiring. At the end of the Valentino show, Pierpaola received a standing ovation, which is no small matter in the fashion world. The collection is supposed to be casual couture, so let’s call this Pierpaola’s take on ready-to-wear everyday looks. Personally, I would not mind casually looking like this throughout SS19.
The make-up and accessories were bright, attention-grabbing and fun.
Thick golden earrings, bedazzled lips and eyes, plus fringed/feathery hats and slides; all refreshingly cool for the season.
The garments themselves were loose-fitted, sheer, pleated or printed, with bursts of colour and classy black fits. The trending 80s inspiration was present, but to be honest, this collection can’t be compared to anything else we’ve seen during Paris Fashion Week (PFW).
4. Seaside with Chanel
The Grand Palais was transformed into a beach and the audience sat seaside while the models walked across the shore.
I never thought that Chanel’s signature tweed pieces could be worn at the beach, but Karl Lagerfeld is here to prove otherwise.
Trends spotted: the ‘obnoxious’ use of a brands logo
I’m talking about CHA-NEL dangling off Kaia Gerber’s ears, CHA-NEL placed on each pocket of her button-up shirt, and CHANEL hanging off her waist.
Wearing your bag around your neck or across your body, and even wearing two bags at once.
Biker shorts were featured throughout the collection, proving that this trend might be here for longer than expected.
5. Bags of all sizes
Jacquemus’ teeny tiny bags have become the brand’s signature for the past couple of seasons. However, oversized bags still matter, and have been included into SS19.
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Loewe also echoed that we will be carrying more than super-small bags during SS19. Bags can be bigger, minimal or over the top with fringe or feathers, and are to be carried around the neck, across the body or held in the hand.
6. What’s PFW without Margiela?
John Galliano and the millenials and Gen-Zers under his apprenticeship still occupy the atelier of Maison Margiela.
Like last season, he is still speaking to our attachment with technology and digital devices through the iPhone-holder prosthetics attached to the models’ ankles and iPads on backpacks.
Another theme that is a part of this idea of digital nomads is gender fluidity.
This is Margiela’s first co-ed collection and the show is completely non-binary – from the gender of the models to the type of clothes they were wearing. Male models wore skirts, dresses and tops with feminine silhouettes. Female models wore loose-fitted items that were layered and essentially left the model androgynous.
7. Denim on denim on denim
I know denim is timeless; I just did not expect it to be a SS19 trend. However, just based on the colour palette trends of this season, it is unsurprising that acid-washed denim has been spotted in multiple shows. This soft blue shade has been creeping onto runways since last season, and now it is quite clear that it is here and evergreen.
Isabel Marant used demin to construct her oversized knee-length boots, high-waisted shorts and 80s inspired jackets and dresses.
Alongside jeans and skirts, Junya Watanabe played with patchwork to make some
Balmain layered denim with shades of blue and added some metallic pieces.
It will be interesting to see how these collections inspire the fashion industry this season and how we personally incorporate similar items and trends into our personal style.