Last week we attended South African Menswear Week to see what our most beloved local designers envision for the spring and summer of 2016/17. Standouts this season included Jenevieve Lyons, Lukhanyo Mdingi, Orange Culture, Rich Mnisi x Thebe Magugu and Tokyo James with collections that once again highlighted SA as a serious contender in the men’s fashion arena. But enough of that. Let’s take a closer look at the collections as we unpack the trends for the season to come.
This season Rich Mnisi and Thebe Magugu collaborated on a fabulously flamboyant collection. It was a family affair with garments adorned with photographs from their childhood, while making reference to the fashion trends of the 70s and 80s. It was very Studio 54 with the vibrant colours, exaggerated silhouettes and jewellery designed by Gisele Human of WAIF and artist Githan Coopoo.
Tokyo James had a different kind of jol in mind. The Nigerian designer invited us to the most exclusive S&M party where chokers, chains and harnesses were aplenty. We died for the patent python shoes. It was all very slick, sexy and exciting.
We saw great matching separates this season, including Armand Dicker’s knitted sweater and shorts. Lukhanyo Mdingi, however, focused on a softer silhouette and a soothing colour palette. His dreamy collection featured delicate prints in luxurious fabrics including a satin pyjama set that I want to spend the rest of my life in. Lukhanyo seamlessly combines comfort and style every time.
Nicholas Coutts, Armand Dicker and Ruald Rheeder are just a few who showed vinyl pieces this season. Nigeria’s Adebayo Oke-Lawal of Orange Culture presented a class of ‘rejects’ strutting down the school hall to the hyperactive track L.O.V.E. by SOPHIE, making the trash-bag-like fabric quite symbolic.
They were everywhere this season, but each designer’s overalls were distinctly different. Nicholas Coutts’s were ultra utilitarian, while Ruald Rheeder’s were soft and delicate. Lukhanyo Mdingi’s wrap front with the tie around the waist was tailored to perfection.
Orange Is the New Black
The verdict is in and orange is the colour of the season. From Orange Culture’s acid orange overall to Sol-Sol’s matching separates, the vibe was very 25-to-life.
Nothing quite says summer like dressing in all-white, and many of our local designers agree. BLANC presented this season’s most coveted raincoat and 2BOP’s head-to-toe look was nothing short of delectable. Armand closed his show with an all-white look that reminded us that it’s all about texture when it comes to DICKER.
The Summer Suit
The staple in every man’s closet was reimagined by the likes of Mai Atafo, Merwe, Nao Serati and Orange Culture. In Tsepo Tsotetsi’s collection the suit was completely deconstructed, reworked and simplified while still being beautiful to look at and architecturally sound.
Soft pink was another colour inspiration among many of the designers this season. Jenevieve Lyons’s cross-cultural collection had the most alluring colour palette combining powder pink with navy blue denim. The soft hue juxtaposed with the hard utilitarian denim added a sense of duality which is a common theme in Jenevieve’s work.
We’re always excited to see all the prints walk down the runway each season. Chu Suwannapha showcased his third print-focused collection that may have featured the must-have knit of the season. We are obsessed with CHULAAP’s crocodile and zebra pullovers. We especially loved the playful prints from Orange Culture, and BLANC’s depiction of religious characters was something quite magical.
All photos sourced from SDR Photo